The town of Tansen did not emerge out of accident. Unlike the many hamlets lining the highways of Nepal, the district headquarters of Palpa has a rich history that spans across many generations. Once a powerful principality, Tansen still retains much of its former glory.

In the mazing streets of the town, which holds a striking resemblance to the ones in the old quarters of Kathmandu, the impressive neo-classical architecture of the erstwhile rulers still holds up. Standing beside the palaces, town square and the newer concrete building are the old homes and temples which were built by the Newars after the town became a major trading route.

Now, Tansen is a curious mix of the old and new with migrants from the nearby districts settling in. This town of artisans, which produces the best quality dhaka—a handwoven fabric used in traditional Nepali garments, and karua—a brass vessel used to store and serve water—however still is an unique destination for its rich culture, geography and craftsmanship. 

The clash of old and new is amplified in the confinement of the small town. While many houses have a multi-generational history attached to them, countless modern buildings housing commercial establishments have cropped up recently. 

One of the many stores selling dhaka products in Tansen. The provenance of this iconic hand-woven fabric is still debatable. Many still believe that Tansen was where it was first manufactured.

The recently constructed view tower at Srinagar. The tower can be reached after a small hike and affords a sweeping view of the town below.

Navigating the familiar streets of the town.

Tansen Durbar Museum was once the palace of the erstwhile rulers of Palpa.

Like tableaus, charming scenes of daily lives play out throughout the town. 

The town has an unmistakable hill station vibe to it.

A sculpture of the town’s famous karua stands in front of the municipal office. 

The town of Tansen, as seen from Madanpokhara. 

Photos: Prajwal Maharjan

Text: Malin Gurung