Food & Travel

Welcome to eastern Nepal. Now let’s eat.

Wild lichen, chicken feathers, pork blood and stinky soybeans—there is so much more to eastern Nepali cuisine than tongba and barbecued pork.

Thomas Heaton, Apr 19 2019

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Six things to do in Tansen

For decades, Tansen has been eclipsed by its two more popular neighbours: Pokhara to the northeast and Lumbini to the southwest. But in the last few years, things have begun to change in this small hill town steeped in history and abundant natural beauty.


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Vivanta’s crown jewel needs quite a bit of polishing

It has well-dressed, polite staff; a well-stocked bar with some of the best spirits the city has to offer; it has the tenth floor, with billion rupee views.

HANTAKALI, Apr 12 2019

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Along the fringe of the Valley

Deep within forests and between the steps of terraced farms, corrugated iron roofs signal homes, and life. These houses occasionally flank paths that traverse the hill, and their residents smile as unfamiliar faces pass through.

Thomas Heaton, Apr 05 2019

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What’s black and tastes like goat?  Kalo Masu, obviously.

By the time the kebab traveled across the Middle East and arrived in the hills of Nepal, it had lost the skewers and hot coal, and become kawaf. Today, to most Nepalis, kawaf is what you do to goat meat during Dashain, the annual holiday that shuts down the country for the sole purposes of feasting.

Post Report, Apr 05 2019

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Bowled over by mountains and tea

By the time I reached Sankhu, my shoes looked like they were made of mud. My motorbike’s engine and its tires too were coated with several inches of mud, and in a remote corner of my mind, I wondered about the wisdom of my decision to travel to Bhotechaur for a quick getaway.


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A few sour notes on the Italian anthem

In the hierarchy of traditional Italian eateries, the osteria is both the starting point and the benchmark. Traditionally serving wine first and food second, Italians frequent such places to drink and eat, as such.

HANTAKALI, Mar 29 2019

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Laphing all the way

The noodles are cold, flat, jelly-like and they come floating on a mixture of vinegar, dried chillies and soy sauce.

Sumeru Sambahangphe, Mar 22 2019

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A monastic experience

Striking a small gong, a young man in maroon robes surveys the picturesque Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery grounds and Kavrepalanchok’s distant paddyfields and outlying villages.

Thomas Heaton, Mar 22 2019

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From Kochi to Kathmandu

Brought to Kathmandu from Kochi, the only familiarity with the kudampuli seems to be its texture. Although that too is up for debate—maybe it’s the texture of a dried apricot, perhaps a prune, but its flavour is otherworldly for the uninitiated.

Thomas Heaton, Mar 15 2019

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Patan’s Honacha might not be the prettiest, but it is an authentic representation of Newar cuisine

Newar dishes are dropped on the table in quick succession: bhatmas sadeko, buff choila, then kachila.

HANTAKALI, Mar 15 2019

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